5.71 US GEAR install
(29 low res pics loading)
FEB 4 2005

Buddy needed to keep his daily driver 
running so I found a good spare 3rd 
laying around, a master install kit 
with Timken bearings, solid collar, 
and a new 571 US GEAR ring/pinion.

The first step is to teardown and clean 
the old 3rd....mark and remove the carrier 
bearing caps. Remove the carrier. Removing 
the carrier bearings is quite simple with 
the right kind of puller. This puller is 
absolutely the best for speed and simplicity.

I'm using a chisel/hammer to tap off the ring gear.

I quickly ran a file around the ring gear 
surface to remove any highspots/burrs. This 
one was very smooth.

The brand new carrier bearings slipped on 
much too easy. Some techs might use a prick 
punch to crater the surface in an attempt to
make the bearing a tight fit. To make sure 
the bearing does not 'spin' I like to use a 
sleeve retainer compound. This stuff is over 
$20 a bottle but with so many "not so tight" 
bearing fits, this stuff is gold.

Time to break down the other half....using an 
electric impact made quick work of the 30mm pinion nut.

I might re-use the thick pinion shim so using 
the bearing separator, I easily pressed off the 
bearing with my 10 ton press (not shown).

Before bolting the ring on, I figure 
this is a good time to verify run-out. 
I measured less than 1 thou. Good.

Checking run-out in the other 
plane.....about 1 micron. ;)

Carefully soft chisel the new races 
in place. This larger inner race is 
the tough one to get started straight....

edit---Best to stay away from all punches... use an old race to evenly "pat down" the new race. Using a punch could result in "oscillating" pinion preload measurements with the torquw wrench. 1-8-2011 ZUK Measuring shim stock, I prefer micrometers (with the ratchet clutch) for the accuracy. I chose .100" for pinion depth and pressed on the bearing.....you can see the solid collar on the bearing and in my hand is .054" worth of collar shims used to set pinion pre-load. Past experience with new bearings has shown this value to get very close in the ballpark. Before I take a pinion torque reading, I soak both bearings in gear oil. It won't work dry. Right on the money..... a nice smooth 10 in/lb. Now it's time to load the ring gear up..... never had to "boil" my ring gears....just used a little common sense and some gentle coaxing. Toyota ring bolts don't have a history of falling out like some other Dana axles but I still always use the blue stuff and 70 ft/lbs of torque. I have found that anti-seize compound works outstanding on the carrier bearing adjuster threads. The screwdriver method will not do the job..... This is much better. For the final set, I use a real torque wrench and 88 ft/lbs in this case. Sometimes I rap the hell out of it in this general area.....it allows the bearings to "find their set". The ZUK finger test......if I can detect any backlash (left-right motion) then the carrier bearing pre-load is way too light. Paint is applied to 3 of the teeth and resistance is applied to the ring while the pinion flange is rotated back and forth. This will give a very clear pattern impression. Here's the drive side with .100" shim depth and .006" backlash. I read this as a little too deep and too hard on the tow side. I will remove 3 or 4 thou from the depth.....the pattern will also shift towards the heel a little. Coast side .100" A complete teardown is involved in changing the pinion depth shim..... Beautiful.....drive side .096" depth Coast...very nice. I like to use a little Ultra-Blue RTV..... I used my electric impact to tighten up the pinion nut. I was able to get it even a little tighter with the 3 foot bar shown here. Not shown but blue Loctite is on the threads. The final step...to actually document/datecode the final values on the ring gear. I took my time with this install (almost 6 hours including preparation and cleaning). This 571 install is set very strong. It will run very quiet also. If something breaks, it won't be the ring and pinion.